10 cotswolds restaurants you need to visit
Want to plant yourself in The Holiday and do a Cotswolds break? Here's some stuff to help (PS the film was actually made in Surrey, but you get the gist).
This week I was lucky enough to go to the Nevill Holt Festival and see the lovely Rachel Johnson interview Plum Sykes about her latest book, Wives Like Us (listen to it on Rachel’s podcast here). The book is all about a group of women in the Cotswolds, told through the eyes of their Executive Butler, Ian. Ian has a collection of Gucci loafers he keeps in an acclimatised closet, to give you a taste of the vibe. Unsurprisingly, Plum is in talks over TV rights - think Cold Feet meets RHOBH.
Plum lives in what she calls “the grotty end” of the Cotswolds in Gloucestershire (the area is over 2000㎢). I’d disagree - she’s in the bit that isn’t heaving with brand new sage green Defenders, women wearing Holland Cooper and carrying Burkins. In my view thats no bad thing.
In the book she describes the “Burford-and-beyond” region and the conversation got me thinking about the sheer volume of great places to eat in the region - even if their clientele are becoming a little, laughably cliche. I’ve included a couple of “obvious” hot spots, but I’ve tried to share a few places less touted on Instagram… For paid members I have included my personal list of hotels and AirBnB’s that I have rented and fully recommend. Enjoy…
1. The Bull, Charlbury
I was lucky enough to go to the opening of Phil and James’s renovated Bull (who also own The Pelican in Notting Hill, somewhat of a London institution) and absolutely loved it. It’s in the centre of Charlbury, a town not short of good food. However, The Bull has made itself comfortable as the favourite in the area. I’ve since been for occasions varying from a spontaneous Sunday lunch (we were very, very lucky to get a table as you really need to book) to birthday parties and it never disappoints.
Think quintessential English grub with a sprinkle of finesse. It feels like a local pub, but the interior design tells you that everything is very considered and damn right cool. If they have a pie, get it. They are so good, every single time.
PS - Phil and James have also just taken over The Hero in Maida Vale (Warwick Ave end). I loved this pub before, my old flat backed onto it, and it looks incredible. Try it!
2. The Swan, Southrop
I had no idea what I was walking into when I went to The Swan - it is a beautiful yet unassuming building from the outside (a former bakery from the 17th century) and I hadn't heard of many people going here.
The food was exceptional; mind blowingly good. If you’re staying at Thyme, it’s just over the road. It is particularly good on Sunday when they offer a traditional English lunch roast all day (I recommend the pork, which is an unusual choice for me).
3. The Potting Shed, Crudwell
Over in Wilshire, The Potting Shed is worth the drive. It’s very much “farm to table” style with traditional English food (the good stuff, not just deep fried potatoes) with organic ingredients. If you’re looking for a good Sunday roast place, this is the one.
4. The Cellar, Stow On The Wold
Stow on the Wold is my personal favourite town in the Cotswolds. You could spend a full weekend there with it’s shops (Cutter Brooks is a favourite, but more to wander than spend - it’s very expensive unless you’re lucky enough to stumble in on one of their Doen clearance days). I’ve popped my favourite hotel in my list for paid subscribers below.
The Cellar is a teeny little bottle shop which doubles up as a wine bar. It serves tapas style small plates that are very special. They do wine tasting nights, both for consumer and trade customers - and have a wine club which local friends have told me is very much worth being a part of.
5. The Wild Rabbit, Kingham
If you’re going to the Cotswolds, you’ve got to try at least one of Lady Bamford’s restaurants and for me The Wild Rabbit is the best of the bunch. Kingham is (in my humble opinion) the centre of all things foodie in the Cotswolds. I guess as it is home to the Big Feastival (a brilliant weekend festival with a surprisingly strong list of music talent, I guess Alex James running it helps) and with Daylesford HQ down the road, it’s no surprise.
Everything is done well, but not too well to feel you couldn’t turn up wearing jeans. It’s got a very relaxed-chic that only a Bamford can master. The food is great - unassumingly so. So are the rooms, wine list, occasional guest chefs and entertainment. You’ll most definitely need to book this one for food, but they do have a bar where you can enjoy a brilliant selection of small plates.
6. The Coconut Tree, Cheltenham
An absolutely unmissable restaurant, The Coconut Tree is a brilliant addition to Cheltenhams abundant food scene. A group of Sri Lankans opened the restaurant in 2016 and it’s been a locals’ favourite ever since. It’s all very pared back; you’ll be eating on benches, the decor includes newspaper cuttings on the walls and paper towels in rolls on the table for sticky fingers.
Having been to Sri Lanka a couple of times I can tell you two things; the food is incredible, and that it’s rare to find anything as good away from the island. This comes as close as it gets. Arrive hungry, there’s loads to try (hoppers, roti, sambals) but get something in you quick as the cocktails are lethally strong (and good).
7. The Painswick, Painswick
To those who know the area, The Painswick is a default choice for a gorgeous, glutenous weekend away. The hotel is beautiful, the food is stunning and the village is the perfect mix of quaint, unassuming, instagrammable and friendly. The surrounding valley also means you can eat yourself stupid and walk it off without having to get in a car (that’s a thing to note about the Cotswolds, you really need to drive unless you find something like this where everything can be found in once place).
I have stayed and eaten at The Painswick a number of times and it never disappoints. The vibe is very relaxed but the food is a serious love for those in their kitchen (as are their drinks; the cocktail menu is excellent). This place is great all year round. In the summer there is a gorgeous terrace you can sit at, or in winter it’s roaring fires and big glasses of red sort of vibes.
8. Lords of the Manor, Upper Slaughter
A pretty traditional choice, but for good reason. You can stay at this place but for me its the food that gets me excited over the rooms (which at the time of writing, were a little tired). If you’re visiting from abroad, you’ll more than likely revel in the history of the building and gardens - it’s sort of Wolf Hall meets Bridgerton vibes (I don’t know if Wolf Hall is a niche reference - if it is, look it up and enjoy!).
The dining room has a facelift to stop if feeling too conference-y a while ago and the food has levelled up alongside it. You can go as far as having a seven course (very English) lunch menu, to popping in for a very well made scone. If you’re green fingered, this is a great place for you - ask for a table in the walled garden.
9. The Feathers, Woodstock
Mentioning this as it’s long been a favourite of my family - Woodstock is lovely for a wander too. The hotel has just finished a renovation and from what I’ve heard looks set to be a goody. Woodstock is pretty easy to get to too, so for those looking for an easy-trip without lots of mileage do enquire here.
10. The Lamb Inn, Shipton-Under-Wychwood
Perfectly positioned between Burford and Chipping North, the Lamb is a rare gem in that it’s managed to pull off doing good food, good rooms and good sports. Usually pubs achieve 2 of those things - a sporting crowd is ordinarily a different beast to a culinary one.
As is the Cotswolds’ unspoken mantra it’s all very unassuming, but the phrasing on the menu tells you these guys have put a lot of time and energy into giving their customers something good. You can have your sausage and mash and your fishcakes, but you could also go a little bit fancier with their specials. A firm favourite for Sunday lunch, be sure to book. There are rooms available, but given its remoteness I’d suggest coming here for lunch over a weekend break (or possibly an overnight stay/dinner if you are road tripping). Its also very pet friendly.